I haven’t been fully honest with you. Yes, I am at a Korean university learning Korean. Yet, everyday feels like I’m breaking an unspoken moral code by not only studying at an all-girl, Christian university, but I also live in 이화여자대학교 (Ewha Womans University). To reconcile your worries, here’s a photo of the beautiful front entrance:
You may have not fallen for my distractor but I offer reason for my actions. In years past, most Yalies studying Korean abroad chose to go to 서강 대학교 (Sogang University), the school with which the Korean program at Yale affiliates with, famous for building the speaking confidence of its students. At times, native speakers or Korean American Yalies would choose 서울 대학교 (Seoul National University), notorious for its overload of work. However, these two programs sort of form the extremes of the Korean language learning difficulty spectrum. Catch your breath here. That being said, I needed a balance of the programs and the search for one lead me to Ewha, acclaimed to be the balance between all of the Korean language programs in Seoul. Past students claim the program to offer equal focus on writing, reading, speaking, and listening, the four cornerstones of traditional language learning. Now, stop judging me.
Orientation to the program on Tuesday was exciting as orientations go. Sigh. Fortunately, the day did not solely comprise of speedy introductions and mundane university tours. Whim ‘n Rhythm, being on their summer world tour, hit their second stop at Seoul and the Yale Club of Korea accommodated a beautiful venue, 일신홀 (Ilshin Hall). In layman’s terms, they were dope. Just check out this fun photo of them mid-clap!
Following the delicious hors d’oeuvres and fiery a cappella, the current undergraduates and I at the event went to 이태원 (Itaewon) for dinner. If you find yourself in Itaewon to immerse yourself in Korean culture, you don’t understand Itaewon. I felt like I was back in the States with the variety of people everywhere due to the influx of expats and foreigners. After dinner, the group dwindled down but the survivors went out to a 노래방 (karaoke). You bet I lost my voice.
I really only had “two” days of class during the first week since Election Day fell on Wednesday and Memorial day fell on Friday. Due to my rigorous schedule, I took time to explore Seoul by relaxing at multiple locations. On Wednesday, a few of the Yalies (Kelsey, Diallo, and Patty) and I went biking along the 한강 (Han River), the great body that splits Seoul. And, damn, is it a great body. The river makes other big city rivers look like a joke. The Seine? Ha! The Thames? No competition! The Tiber? Nice try, Rome! It is massive to cross and makes the other half of Seoul look like a far-off land. The beautiful bike ride along the river currently has been my favorite moment in Seoul. Everything seemed so serene, I didn’t even mind the absurd amount of couples all around us. Following dinner, we got some beers and just enjoyed the waves the crested on the rocks underneath the overground of the Inner Circle Line.
On Friday, those same few Yalies and I went exploring around 연세 대학교 (Yonsei University) on our day off. But first, my tirade on 냉면 (Naengmyeon). We decided to cool off the heat with a common summer dish. It comprises of a ball of handmade thin noodles in ice-cold broth. The ball needs to be cut to even eat the damn thing. The first bite is interesting to say the least. Regardless, each bite afterwards leaves disappointment. Nothing could coerce me to have the poor excuse for a meal ever again. Ever. Period.
Breathe out.
To best elaborate the expansiveness of Yonsei, picture this: dozens upon dozens of faculty building and facilities separated by hiking trails. I have no idea how students manage to get around the campus without a car. The adventure ended up to be a hunt for the Yonsei Milk Company, which implied in our minds delicious homemade ice cream. An unquantified amount of time later, we find a closed office building and ourselves quite tired and sweaty. I wanted nothing to do with Yonsei after that and we immediately left for ice cream. If you ever find yourself in Korea, you need to get this ice cream sandwich that is actually just ice cream between two slices of bread and it’s 1000x better than naengmyeon.
En route back to Edae, we stopped at a tunnel layered with graffiti right by Sinchon Station.
We went to 홍대 (Hongdae), a scene with bars and clubs around every corner, for the evening. Following dinner, we went to an izakaya to have some 막걸리 (Korean rice wine). Now, 막걸리 is quite an enjoyable cheap drink. It may look like milk but it’s quite a different nectar. Color me happy.
After the bar, all I can say is don’t try to go to a 노래방 twice in one week, your voice will hate you afterwards.
How to Korean barbecue you ask? Why, just go out with your good buddy, Tim Kim, and his best friend on a Saturday night in Hongdae and you will be quite pleased. We went to an all-you-can-eat BBQ and the heavens blessed us that day. We had a good few kilos of meat that evening. It may or may not have been a struggle to walk afterwards, you may assume what you want.
I’ll report back post food-coma.
